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The wet look is in for SS20.
Ludovic De Saint Sernin showed his wet and wild themed collection atop the Centre Pompidou during Paris Fashion Week, and the guests sitting front row were a testament to the buzz behind the label: Rick Owens and drag queen Detox were both in attendance. When we interviewed Ludovic for our Under The Radar series, he told us, “I want to do really fun and glamorous pieces for guys, because we also want to look amazing from time to time.” The SS20 collection delivered on that.
The first look – an organza long shirt and pants in petal pink – set the tone for the rest of the collection, and the brand as a whole, which champions an unapologetic male sensuality with plenty of skin on display (one look was literally just a towel around the waist). Naturally, the transparent suit highlighted another key component of the brand, the eyelet underwear brief, which went viral last season and was rendered in a hot shade of pink for SS20. Another key look recalled one of the best pieces from FW19, a silvery crystal tank top, transformed this season turned into a pair of low-rising pants.
The semi-opaque patterning for SS20 knitwear suggested perspiration forming around the chest. “You don’t know if they’ve come out the water or if they’re sweating,” Ludovic De Saint Sernin tells Highsnobiety backstage. Think wet T-shirt competition, but make it fashion. The womenswear looks were equally provocative, with delicate pieces of navy fabric contouring around the body with pieces of glassware at the hip and collarbone.
Elsewhere, long sleeved collared tees were given an asymmetrical cut at the hem and featured a large cut-out around the chest designed to evoke the shape of a water droplet. The outerwear was a little more conservative, consisting of trench coats with shiny metal hardware along the belt. For all its sexiness, Ludovic De Saint Sernin is helping to stimulate a wider conversation happening in menswear right now, one that is shifting away from luxury streetwear and towards a more interesting dismantling of gendered codes. “Glamorous” is apt.