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Craig Green has always liked clothing to be wearable and made to serve a purpose. It is what makes his devoted take on uniformity so desirable to a growing, loyal following of men (and women). During last month’s Fashion Awards, he took home Menswear Designer of the Year, and on Monday morning Green showed why he was worthy of that title.
“I started off thinking about a man made of glass and the idea of fragility and how emotion doesn’t always mean weakness, it can also mean strength,” Green said after his standout FW19 show.
Ever since his first solo SS15 presentation, Green has created a distinct design language for himself rooted in workwear, which often explores themes of community and travel and is accompanied by wearable sculptures and touching soundtracks — time-after-time heightening the experience of his audience.
This season, Green’s clan of nomadic men gradually discovered their individual powers. After all, one must leave the pack to find the individual.
While the aesthetic remained consistent, it also resulted in a broader range of ideas and corresponding techniques. “Medieval ones,” according to Green, which were used in ways they were not meant to. Think peeling harnesses wrapped around the body made from crocheted-elastic — resembling peeling cocoons — and sleek, sport-y tailoring with boning trapped on the inside and with a reversible lining, giving its wearer the option to wear the item both ways.
There were also slitted tops and matching trousers in tartan and lumberjack checks, netted tops worn under transparent, nylon anoraks and candy-colored two-pieces that came in smocked plastic and made his “men of glass” come to life. “I like that idea of protection,” he said of the bubble-wrapped men. “It was a bit like in a story where in the end they turned to glass and were almost in the ultimate form of something.” Bubblewrap dragon scales, Green called them.
The show ended with six hooded parkas. Simple, black and white in the front, graphic-heavy in the back, displaying an eclectic collage of cultural references from around the world as observed by Green. “Everything is so front-facing now, so only the people that came to the show could see it,” he said.
In the end, viewers were left with an emotional, provocative and all-round plain beautiful 10 minutes of show. It was everything most of the collections the days prior missed. And so, Green’s latest outing proved once again that he remains king of London menswear.