Paris Fashion Week, Day 1 Recap: High Slits, Boyish Blazers, and Ballooning Sleeves
Paris Fashion Week began today with a slew of shows by young designers on the rise. The more familiar of the bunch, Anthony Vaccarello and Simon Porte Jacquemus of Jacquemus, continued to build out their visions with true-to-spirit collections. For the greener up-and-comers, deconstruction and repurposing garments were the themes of the day, seen at Y/Project and Koché. In between was a brand-new collection from a Balenciaga assistant, and the day closed with a festive prom hosted by Coach. Read on for a bite-size recap of all of today’s news.
Designer Antonin Tron has worked at Givenchy, Louis Vuitton, and Balenciaga—no surprise, then, that his new collection, Atlein, incorporates some of the streetwise sportiness favored at those houses. What Tron adds to the fashion conversation is lower prices and a high wearability factor. By making the majority of his collection from jersey, he’s able to appeal to customers’ hearts and wallets.
Anthony Vaccarello is the king of the strict silhouette and dangerously high slit—but this season he introduced new volumes into his Fall 2016 collection. Mannish ’80s blazers were worn as dresses and shaggy fur-lined jackets. The big draw for Vaccarello fans will be the lace-up detailing—start the night tight-laced and end it, well, less so.
At Jacquemus, Simon Porte Jacquemus expanded his vocabulary of the strange with an ’80s twist. Proportions were remixed in Memphis colors, the straps of slip dresses reaching up to models’ ears, while the sleeves of sweaters dripped many inches past fingertips. But for all the experimentation in the collection, that blue-checked coat sure is wearable.
Slip dresses and hoodies are far and away the two items that defined Spring ’16 fashion. At Koché, Christelle Kocher’s nascent line, they merged into one grail item: a nude slip with a black and gray hoodie morphed into its skirt. Where do we line up to buy?
Who could have guessed that 19th-century bishops would be among this season’s muses? But the historical gents—and the ballooning sleeves they sported—have already inspired voluminous details at Y/Project today and at Marni in Milan. The former, which staged its first fashion show, also showed wide-leg jeans and ruffled slip dresses.
Watch all of our Fall 2016 Ready-to-Wear videos:
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